Melt butter and oil in a large saucepan over low-medium heat. Add diced vegetables and a pinch of salt and pepper, fry until soft, without colouring (10-15 minutes).
Add mince and another pinch of salt and pepper, stir and break up so as there are no lumps and fry until it no longer looks raw, but also not allowing to brown.
Add tomato paste, stir to incorporate, cook for 3-4 minutes. Turn up the heat to medium-high, add nutmeg and milk, bring to a simmer and allow liquid to reduce for 5-10 minutes.
Add wine and again, reduce for 5-10 minutes. Add enough water to cover the meat by 2cm, turn the heat right down to low and leave to very gently simmer for 4-6 hours, stirring from time to time, adding a splash of water when needed so it doesn’t simmer dry. You’ll notice for the first couple of hours the smell and flavour is rather dull, but it will slowly gain depth.
Once your ragu is ready, turn off the heat. It can sit happily for a while, then toss with fresh pasta (tagliatelle works best), layer in a lasagne, or even serve on toast with an egg for breakfast!